CARTAGENA – A MUST TO VISIT

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Roman Theater

Cartagena is a passionate, temperamental city, built in sudden fits of inspiration followed by historical blackouts.

A settlement already existed before it was founded by Carthaginian General Hasdrubal, as shown by the Phoenician boats still sunk in its bay. It was refounded by the Romans as Carthago Nova and then became a key location on 18th-century military maps, and a fickle friend of the First Republic.

The city revolted against the central government, and for six months between 1873 and 1874 the Cantón de Cartagena became a sovereign nation, coined money and even asked the United States for admission into the Union.

The latest burst of energy in this city of 230,000 is taking place now, and it has to do with architecture. It is as if the city’s ego has found an escape valve in designer construction. The fever is being channelled mostly into refurbishing vestiges of the past and decking them with avant-garde finishing touches. But there are also entirely new buildings that dazzle the eye, plus state-of-the-art street fixtures.

Of all the restoration projects, the Roman Theatre stands out the most. In the year and a half since its reopening, it has become the most visited monument in the entire region. It was not until 1990 that city officials realized it was there, lying under a block of humble homes in the fishermen’s quarter, which the city promptly bought and demolished. The archaeological work was complemented by an architectural project led by Rafael Moneo, who won several prizes for his efforts. The fact that Carthago Nova had such a large theatre (it is a meter longer than the Roman Theatre at Mérida and seated around 6,000 spectators) indicates that it was an important city.

Other Roman remains are scattered all over the old part of town, and have been admirably prepared for public inspection. There is the Decumano, a paved road complete with shops and thermal baths, or the House of Fortune, which contains mosaics, frescoes and a road dating back to the first century.

Similarly, the remains of the Punic Wall have been wrapped up in glass and concrete to create a visitor centre with information about the period when the city was known as Qart Hadast. The Fort of Concepción, a castle built atop the tallest of the five hills surrounding the city, is a reminder of Cartagena’s medieval history.

But there is no doubt that the most dazzling part of Cartagena is its maritime promenade. A few years ago it was nothing more than a seedy parking lot, but cars have since been banished and the entire seafront has been made pedestrian friendly against the backdrop of the Carlos III gardens for another pleasant surprise.